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Lattice Training Podcast

作者: Lattice Training

最近更新: 6个月前

We. Train. Climbers.  At Lattice, we aim to develop and grow our un...

Recent Episodes

Do Climbers Really Need to Lift Weights? | Part 2

In the second half of this two-part series, Ollie Torr is joined by international coach Jesse Firestone, Lattice coach Jemma Powell, and elite climbers Will Bosi and Aidan Roberts to delve deeper into the nuances of strength and conditioning in climbing.Jesse Firestone brings his expertise as a renowned U.S.-based climbing coach, known for his holistic approach to athlete development. Jemma Powell, a seasoned Lattice coach with over 25 years of climbing experience, shares insights from her work with climbers across various levels. Will Bosi and Aidan Roberts, both at the forefront of elite climbing, discuss how tailored strength and conditioning programs have influenced their performance and progression.Key Topics Covered:The importance of individualised training programs for climbers.Addressing the specific needs of female, older, and younger athletes in strength and conditioning.Strategies for integrating strength training without compromising climbing technique.Managing fatigue and recovery to optimise performance.Real-world experiences from elite climbers on balancing training and climbing.Join us as we explore these topics and more, providing valuable insights for climbers and coaches aiming to optimise performance through personalised strength and conditioning strategies.Listen to Part 2 now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your preferred platform.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

6个月前

3352

Flow and Climbing: More Than Just Effortless Control

In this in-depth episode, hosts Maddy Cope and coach Flo Tilley explore the intricate relationship between flow state, climbing performance, and mindset. Flow, often described as a state of effortless control and total absorption, is more than just a performance booster, it’s a transformative mental space where climbers feel deeply engaged and in sync with their challenges. Maddy and Flo dive into the science of flow, sharing practical techniques to cultivate this state by balancing skill and challenge, embracing playfulness, and applying mindfulness.Listeners will also learn how self-compassion plays a pivotal role in allowing climbers to quiet self-criticism and focus on being present. The hosts discuss how coaching can facilitate an individual’s exploration of their personal experiences, leading to breakthroughs in both mental strategies and climbing performance. Whether you’re battling mental barriers or looking to improve your performance, this conversation will help you tap into the flow state and find joy in your climbing journey.Takeaways:Flow is a natural experience that happens when skills and challenges align.Embracing playfulness and self-compassion can make it easier to access flow.Mindfulness helps slow down negative thoughts, creating space for peak performance.Coaching and self-reflection are powerful tools to enhance your mindset and approach to climbing.🎧 Dive into this episode now and learn how to cultivate flow, conquer mental barriers, and bring more joy into your climbing. Link in bio!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

7个月前

2680

Do Climbers Really Need to Lift Weights? | Part 1

Weightlifting in climbing. It’s one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we’re diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.We’re talking to:Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.Jemma Powell – A Lattice coach, mother of two, and former GB climber. Jemma specialises in coaching pregnant and postpartum athletes, helping them rebuild strength safely and sustainably. She also works with weekend warriors and performance climbers, with a strong focus on injury prevention, movement quality, and mindset.Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.You’ll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he’s not lifting right now, but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting, moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.We’ll cover:Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performanceWhat female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength trainingPortable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-timeThe compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use themWhy “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbingWhether you’re curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level. 🎧 Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dig deeper into hypertrophy, burnout, identity shifts, and the longThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

8个月前

5006

Tom Randall Opens Up: Mindset, Burnout & Real Life

In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth.Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs.Whether you’re navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn’t linear, this one’s for you.Key topics include:The psychology of projecting routesWhy letting goals “brew” improves performancePain tolerance and aging in climbingBalancing sponsorship with personal strugglesFinding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing’s most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

9个月前

5144

From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana, one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science.From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally.Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive trainingHow weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performanceThe mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-termWhy goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbingHis long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performanceDrew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success.🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

9个月前

4833

Creatine for Climbers: Game-Changer or Overhyped?

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts, Andy Cave, Maddy Cope, Tom Herbert, and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad?The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense?Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself:🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.”Key Takeaways:Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles.Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder?Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing.Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry?Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works?Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack.👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉 https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

10个月前

6627

Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet

In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects.Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines.Key Takeaways:Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance.Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them.Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects.Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock.Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene.👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

11个月前

3163

Climbing Stronger: Injury Management, Optimism, and the Power of Training Load

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “comfort crisis” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth.Key Takeaways:Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference.Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start.The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond.Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training.Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance.👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

11个月前

5803

Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C

In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino.They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone.Key TakeawaysMelissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges.Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime.The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains.How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle.Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12).Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

12个月前

4218

Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results.Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level.Key Takeaways:Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbersLISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performanceEssential recovery strategies for improving enduranceWhy personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alonePractical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectivenessWhether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level!Links mentioned in the episode:https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQhttps://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645sThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/11/30

4326

How Two Boulderers Freed The Nose

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs.Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job, set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes.If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars.Key Takeaways:Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El CapitanHow competition climbing skills apply to big wallsEndurance training and preparation for big wall climbingHighlights from the upcoming film The Nose JobJoin Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/11/9

3849

9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering

In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world.Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed.In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane, and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard, crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds.With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents.Key Takeaways:Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of TimeUnique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major projectThe mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challengesHow Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackledThe evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projectsWhat’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projectsTune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world!And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/10/26

5101

Projecting Tactics for 8c and Beyond with Coach Jen Wood

Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting.Topics Covered:Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks.Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades.The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable.Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits.For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/9/21

611

Highlight: Training Like an Olympian with Coach Ollie Torr

Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr, about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes.Key topics include:Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development.Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance.Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level.Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches.For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/9/14

1272

Breaking Barriers: Jen Wood's Historic First Ascent and Climbing Evolution

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet—Vela Stivina in Croatia—sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits.Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures.Key Takeaways:Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence.Weather Matters: Jen’s preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment.Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing.Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies.Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals.Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles.Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits.Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn’t always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding.Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence.Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it’s a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching.Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/8/31

2761

Highlight: Postpartum Power: Sarah Duvall on Climbing, Core Strength, and Recovery After Pregnancy

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries.Key Topics Include:Sarah’s Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned.Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery.Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/8/24

629

Climbing Through Time: Steve McClure on Aging, Injury Prevention, and Staying Motivated

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference.Highlights from this Discussion Include:Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age.Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration.Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers.Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age.Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength.Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body.Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time.This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/8/17

2192

Road to the Olympics: Exclusive Interview with Ollie Torr

In this episode of the Lattice Podcast, host Josh Hadley sits down with renowned coach Ollie Torr, who has guided multiple Olympic athletes and collaborated with national teams worldwide. Together, they delve into the rigorous and strategic training required for Olympic climbers, revealing what distinguishes potential Olympic medallists from other elite international competitors—both in terms of personality traits and training approaches.Key Takeaways:The key differences between international competition climbers and those poised to win Olympic medalsThe vital role of a strong support network, including parents, coaches, physiotherapists, and media managers, in an athlete’s journey to successThe importance of physical training focused on building resilience, cultivating the ability to push limits, and embracing challengesHow training cycles, including deliberate "training holes" and super compensation, push athletes to their peak performanceThe significance of dedication, sacrifice, and trust in the training process for achieving success at the highest levelThe role of genetics and body type in climbing performance, alongside the impact of lifestyle choices and the joy of trainingDon’t miss this latest episode and elevate your climbing knowledge with expert insights from Josh Hadley and Ollie Torr.And best of luck to all the GB athletes in Paris 2024! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/8/9

4181

Being Your Best and Climbing in Your 50s with Steve McClure

This is the second of a two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve McClure, one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss what it means to continue pushing boundaries and achieving peak performance in your 50s. Steve’s remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and big walling. He achieved his highest sport climbing grade at 46 years old, ‘Rainman’ 9b at Malham cove, defying expectations and setting an inspiring example for climbers everywhere.Topics Covered:Life in Decades: Steve reflects on how his life has evolved from his 20s and 30s into his 40s and 50s, including changes in family, work, and climbing.Changes and Challenges: The main changes and challenges Steve has experienced as he’s gotten older.Climbing Performance: Which aspects of performance continue to improve with age and which tend to stagnate or decline.Training Focus: How Steve works on maintaining and improving his performance.Balance Shift: How his focus has shifted between bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing over the years.Performance Energy: Where Steve currently focuses most of his performance energy.Effective Training: What training methods are working for Steve now and how have they changed.Common Mistakes: Common errors ageing climbers make and how to avoid them.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/8/3

3619

Highlight: Climbing In Your 50s with Steve McClure

In today’s Lattice Podcast Highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with the legendary Steve McClure to discuss the secrets behind maintaining and performing into your 50s. Steve's storied career includes ground-breaking ascents and impressive repeats across all climbing disciplines, making him a unique authority on the subject.Highlights from this discussion include:Emphasising the importance of aligning training with specific climbing goals for optimal results.Understanding and addressing weaknessesImportance of top-quality trainersThe significance of dedicating undistracted time to climbing and how full-time commitment can lead to substantial improvements.This 13min episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that delves into the evolution of climbing grades, training methods, and Steve’s unique approach to staying at the top of his game.For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.As a thank you to our listeners, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/7/27

801

Evolution of Grades & Psychology of Climbing at the Limit with Steve McClure

In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling. His notable achievements include ‘Mutation’ 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of ‘Rainman’ 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK.Topics Covered:Operating at the Limit.Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit?How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences.The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution.Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steve’s performance.Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/7/20

3071

Highlight: Jana Švecová Projecting Stories

In today's Podcast Highlight, we delve into the world of climbing with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber currently taking on the challenging boulder problem Terra Nova, graded 8C+. Here are the key insights from our conversation:Approaching Goals with Determination: Jana shares her approach to climbing goals, emphasising the importance of focus and determination while enjoying the journey.Dealing with Doubts and Criticism: Despite facing doubts and criticism, Jana stays resilient and trusts in her abilities, showcasing the mental fortitude required in climbing.Training with Lattice Training: Jana discusses her experience training with Lattice Training and the remarkable improvements she's seen in her climbing performance.Exploring Climbing Opportunities: Jana encourages climbers to explore the diverse climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic, highlighting its unique challenges and rewards.This Podcast Highlight offers a glimpse into Jana's climbing journey and her passion for the sport. For the full conversation and more insights, listen to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/7/13

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The Evolution of Training in Climbing - 10 Years of Lattice

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with coach Maddie Cope to delve into the evolution of education and training in the climbing world. They discuss significant changes in three key areas: energy systems, female athletes, and strength and conditioning. Tom and Maddie share insights on how understanding and approaches have transformed over the years, leading to positive outcomes in climbing performance and training effectiveness.Main topics include:Energy Systems: Improved categorisation and understanding of energy systems have enhanced training effectiveness and load management.Female Athletes: Education on the menstrual cycle and female physiology has empowered female climbers, improving training structure and performance.Strength and Conditioning: Shifts in attitudes towards strength and conditioning now emphasise specificity, progressive overload, and injury prevention, with a focus on core and upper body strength.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/7/6

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Highlight: Flexibility Training for Climbers

In today’s Lattice Podcast Highlight, hosts Maddy Cope and Tom Randall discuss Lattice's brand-new online flexibility training course. This course emphasises the importance of education and knowledge-sharing in climbing training, focusing on three main goals:Educating climbers on methods beyond passive static stretchingIntegrating flexibility training into overall training programsHelping climbers select exercises based on their flexibility level.The course provides step-by-step guides and assessments, to transform your approach to flexibility training and promote a sustainable, informed method.Highlights include:Training FrequencyMenstrual Cycle ConsiderationsStructured ApproachEvolving Training CultureActive vs. Passive StretchingImportance of EducationThis episode is a highlight from a more in-depth conversation coming next week, covering additional insights on flexibility training, energy systems, and optimising performance for climbers.⁣Special Offer Ends Soon, 1st July at Midnight: Get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat. Don’t miss this chance to elevate your training!https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/6/29

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Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran

In this week’s podcast join Lattice Training coach,Josh Hadley, and fellow coachFran Giacomozzi, as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers.Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo.Key Topics Covered:Integrating flexibility with climbingAt-home body weight exercisesEssential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobilityAt-home body weight exercises, including upper bodyManaging soreness and dealing with injuriesStrategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progressJoin us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether you’re struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips.If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We’d love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight.https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/6/22

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Highlight: Overcoming Insecurity and Errors in Big Walling

In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, coach Maddy Cope is joined by coach Billy Ridal to discuss the challenges and insecurities faced while climbing a difficult pitch on a big wall. They delve into the physical and mental efforts required to overcome insecurities and stick with the climb.Topics include:Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls.Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them.Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/6/15

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How to get back into climbing post-childbirth?

In today's episode, host and coach, Maddy Cope, is joined by Dr. Sarah Duvall, a women's health and fitness specialist, to explore the intersection of climbing, fitness, and motherhood. Maddy brings her experience from coaching elite climbers post-partum such as Emily Harrington, and her passion for climbing to the conversation as she delves into Sarah's expertise. With over 15 years in the climbing industry and a background in coaching and climbing performance, Maddy is excited to learn from Sarah's wealth of experience.Together, they uncover practical strategies and exercises to enhance your climbing journey, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. From managing fear and anxiety to finding balance and prioritisation, this episode is packed with valuable insights:Topics include:Insights into Sarah's personal climbing journey postpartum and her impressive climbing achievements.The importance of breathing techniques and core strength for climbers, particularly during pregnancy and postpartum.Practical exercises and tips for improving breathing patterns and core engagement.Strategies for managing fear and anxiety when returning to climbing postpartum.Finding balance and prioritisation in different seasons of life.Don't miss out on this empowering conversation with Dr. Sarah Duvall. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more.Some links from Sarah to help support the podcast:Heel hooking hamstring strain strengthening prevention protocol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqvTjDcGZXQ&t=9sAdvanced hip rotational exercises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoC5YhmojGQ&t=37sDrawing in vs abdominal brace: https://youtu.be/WA-mFvykZ9k?si=hQVcYeG1TDquRDpKRib cage mobility breathing exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1AkIPbnbfgPushing vs pulling and core pressure: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4ezNr6HXGu/?igsh=dHB1dHllbTB6dDBmThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/6/8

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Highlight: Exploring Endurance Through Psycho-Biological Theories

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cameron Hartley to explore two interesting theories. The ‘Central Governor Theory’, which suggests that a system in our brain signals when it's time to stop exercising to prevent potential harm, and the ‘Psycho-Biological Theory’, which integrates psychological constructs into our understanding of endurance performance.Highlights from this discussion include:Understanding exercise cessation: The role of the brain in regulating physical limits according to the Central Governor Theory.Integrating psychology in endurance: How the Psycho-Biological Theory emphasises the perception of effort and motivation.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that covers additional insights on endurance performance and how these theories can be applied in training. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/6/1

607

Will Jana Švecová be the first woman to boulder 9A/V17?

Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, it’s currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, it’s rumoured it could be 9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process.Topics include:Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress.Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her.Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers. Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges.Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles.Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: It’s hidden gems!Join us in today's episode where Jana Švecová shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/5/25

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Highlight: Dealing with Post-Partum Criticism

Today's highlight is on Emily Harrington's postpartum journey, including her rapid recovery and return to climbing and skiing.Emily faced criticism for her decision to resume physical activities soon after giving birth, but she stood firm in her belief that it's essential to do what feels right for oneself.Join us as Emily opens up about the challenges of navigating postpartum life, including the emotional and physical toll of breastfeeding and the pressures of body image.Topics Covered:Birth Experience and Early Postpartum PeriodChallenges of Body Image and BreastfeedingReturn to Climbing and SkiingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

2024/5/18

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